Kilimanjaro Day 3 – Shira I Camp to Shira II Camp

Kilimanjaro Day 3
Shira I Camp (11,439′) to Shira II Camp (12,768′)
Zone: Heath Moorland Zone
Quoted Distance: 10km/6.2 miles
Guide Service: Everlasting Tanzania

I never thought I’d get so excited for a hot water bottle but oh man, hot water bottle is definitely another MVP for this trip and is worth the weight and space it takes up. I’ve had Essau fill my hot water bottle after dinner and it provides so much coziness in my sleeping bag. It doesn’t last all night but a few hours is better than nothing. Last night was cold, so cold. I had gone to sleep wearing fleece lined leggings and a long-sleeved merino wool shirt but I woke up cold at some point in the night; needing to add another layer of fleece and a beanie in order to warm up enough to fall back asleep, and perhaps an extra sleeping pill or two. Nonetheless, I did fall back asleep quickly each time I woke and I basically managed to sleep from about 9pm to 6:30am.

It was 40F in my tent when I woke up, and significantly colder outside. Shane was already up and urged us to come out during our 6:30am wake up call. I figured it was worth crawling out if he was so excited for the view. The ground and my tent were both covered in frost but the skies had cleared with not a cloud to be seen and the sun was rising behind Kibo peak as she and her glaciers were welcoming us to the day. This morning I broke my no-caffeine streak and went with a green tea with honey for my wake-up tea. I deserve it. We aren’t really supposed to have caffeine on the mountain but it doesn’t seem to be as big of a deal to our guides now that we are here so screw it.

Last night our porters washed our muddy boots and it was really nice pulling on a clean boot this morning, I’m not sure they’ve looked this good since I bought them! After I put on my gators with ease I sat back and reflected on how two days ago I had no idea what to do with them and now it was just a basic part of getting dressed that I didn’t have to think too hard about it. Who am I?! By the time I finished packing up my gear and was headed to the breakfast tent the ground had defrosted and the sun was shining bright.

Breakfast was another carbalicious event. Today, the crepes were savory with lime zest baked into them! My favorite parts of breakfasts so far are the porridge (which we had again this morning as well) and the crepes. Steven makes better crepes on the mountain in a crammed cooking tent with limited resources than I make in my full kitchen at home! During breakfast Chaz reported that he had actually gotten to sleep last night thanks to the ear plugs Kyra gave him. She promised to keep him stocked up the rest of the trip.

Bellies full and shoes clean, we were ready to get our day started. Swaeba’s voice sounded loud as he launched into song and all the porters (and Chaz) converged, GodBless dancing past us to join his comrades in chorus. We still have no idea what they were singing but it started with some type of pump-you-up hype song that included calling each of our names, our Swahili nicknames, in the encouraging chorus. From there they went straight into the Song of Kilimanjaro. Essau came over to us and grabbed Shane by the hand, pulling him in to dance with them. When they started the next song Chaz pulled Shane into the center and taught him his dance. Watching these videos back as I write this makes me smile so much!

Next thing I know, Chaz was beckoning to me and I was being pulled forward! I danced into their circle and awkwardly tried to figure out their moves; looking like a moron but having the time of my life!!! Honestly, I have happy tears in my eyes watching this back and writing about it. These beautiful souls; they are working their asses off to take care of us and do it all with so much sincere joy. For them to expend their energy singing and dancing when they have ten kilometers to speed through with heavy rucksacks on their heads is just, I don’t even know the right word, it’s just a beautiful experience to be a part of.

Chaz and Essau danced over and pulled Kyra and Katie in to the circle. I danced out to keep recording and enjoying the show. The song and dance hype session lasted a solid six minutes. That may not sound like much but it’s a lot when the energy levels are high and the songs gleeful. Love love love.

Chaz led the way as we departed Shira I Camp, headed to Shira II. I was thrilled for the sun to be shining down on us as we started our day. We were taking advantage of the sun and hanging clothes and gear to dry; Katie had pants flowing from her pack and I had gloves clipped to mine. Today is an “easy” day – it’s supposed to be relatively flat and meant as an acclimatization day. For the first time, we got to see the everlasting flowers open as the sun is was draws them out of their tight little buds into their spiky shiny flowers.

Crystal clear streams flowed, lined with sun drenched boulders; another new terrain for us though we are still in the heath moorland climate zone.

Spying a large boulder by a directional marker; we of course decided that the boulder must be climbed. One-by-one we scrambled up, a much more challenging task for me with my lack of depth perception, and had fun like little kids on a jungle gym.

With the flatter terrain the flora was lusher and taller than yesterday. Yellow flowers dotted the greenery and more everlastings blossomed. Spiked cactus-like plants produced little purple flowers in their center. As us ladies lined up for our first pee circle of day, more of a pee line this time really, all our porters caught up to us and started walking by as we were finishing up. Oopsie but I can’t imagine that it’s not a normal site to them. We crossed the rescue road; literally the road that the parks and emergency personnel are able to use when they have to come rescue someone from these “lower” elevations on the mountain. We do not intend to be using this road.

Our blue sky started to turn cloudy and grey but at least we were still dry! We stopped for a snack break and Shane shook his head in amusement at how it is us girls that are the gross ones with our constant burping (me) and farting (Katie and Kyra). He admitted that he made a comment to Saidi apologizing for us and Saidi told him that all the women are like us on the mountain! As I munched on snacks, Shane told me that he was impressed with my appetite and can’t believe how much I eat; asking how is it possible that I’m not his size because I seem to eat just as much as him! Easy, five days a week strength training and seven days a week walking 3-5 miles each day.

We’ve been terrible and have not stretched at all because of the wet weather. I took this break to do some of my favorite stretches, including a standing figure four with a lean down to touch my toes while figure four’d, and it felt so damn good. I really need to remember to stretch more!

As the sky grew grayer and mistier, the air chilled more and the terrain started to feel almost creepy haunted with the moss hanging from trees. Why did the air get chillier? Because we had all been feeling warm and had just stopped, seconds earlier to shed layers. On the mountain this seems to be a key cause and effect. As soon as you shed a layer she (the mountain) laughs and the atmosphere stirs just to mess with you.

Our resident plant lover, Katie, was so so happy when she spotted her first giant senecio kilimanjari plant on the trail. She had wanted to put spotting the first one on our bingo card but none of the rest of us had any clue what she was talking about so it was vetoed. The senecio kilimanjari is like a funny shaped multi-headed palm tree. Saidi explained that each “head” (my word not his) of the plant indicates 25 years of life. He also told Katie not to get too excited yet because we would be seeing many more much closer on the trail tomorrow. When we got closer to one, Saidi picked up a piece of bark that had been shed so we could feel the soft “cotton” insulation on the back. It was indeed super soft and fuzzy.

Chaz and Saidi had not lied when they said today would be an easier day and about 1:30pm we arrived at Shira II Camp. I was excited that we made it to camp dry and actually felt dry on trail for the first time!

Lunch was ready for us on arrival; celery soup (with an extra half ladle “for summittt”), white bread, potatoes, tomato cucumber salad, and saucy beef with vegetables.

Our tents were arranged right near the Shira II Camp sign which made for a picturesque setup. No other campers were there since the other group at Shira I had split off towards Moir Hut today. After lunch we all retreated to our tents to get changed, set up our beds, and get our tents organized for the evening. So nice to not feel rushed. After getting settled, I stretched some more. Kyra asked if I wanted to go with her to chat with the porters and see the kitchen tent. “Nope!” I feel like I maybe sounded like a bit of an ass with my quick reply but I was cozy stretching and didn’t want to feel like I was in their way, I didn’t mean to sound like an ass! “But give me 15 more minutes and I’ll meet you in the dining tent for a game!”

Shane did Shane things while Kyra, Katie, and I converged in the dining tent. Freshly popped popcorn was waiting for us; the best!!! I had Yahtzee and a conversation deck; we opted for the conversation deck, specifically, the Liz Moody Healthier Together Deck – a box of cards with conversation prompts. We sat in the uncomfortable camp chairs, eating popcorn, drinking tea, and learning more about each other with prompts along the lines of “How often is sex optimal?” and “what is the closest you’ve been to death?”

Our game ended when Shane yelled for us to come quick while the clouds are moving. Sure enough, the clouds had cleared, but were moving back and forth quickly, and more of the summit had showed herself, with a giant glacier shimmering on the side, our first glimpse of Uhuru Peak, the highest point on the mountain, the highest point in Africa. We had to call over Essau to confirm that we were in fact seeing what we thought we were; yup, that’s Uhuru Peak. Uhuru only teased us with her view for about five minutes before the clouds rolled back in, hiding the fact that any summit existed.

Dinner was leak and zucchini soup to start, with an entree of noodles, steamed carrots and broccoli, saucy ground beef, and banana fritters. Definitely my favorite lunch or dinner so far and easily restaurant quality food. I really want to learn how to make that saucy meat!

Shira II Camp is a little more sheltered than Shira I but it was still already down to 47F when I retreated to my tent for the night. I am glad I have both my Nalgene and my hot water bottle. Tonight they are both filled with hot water so I can put my Nalgene down by my feet and my hot water bottle against my side. We had an easy day today so we could get rested and better acclimatized before tomorrow’s tough day. Tomorrow we climb to Lava Tower, an elevation in excess of 15,000’, and then back down to Baranco Camp. Tomorrow is a very critical day. Lava Tower is a good test leading up to summit. Saidi told us that if you can make it to Lava Tower without getting sick it is an indicator that there’s an 80-90% chance you will successfully make summit. I’ve got my extra hot water bottle and I’m bundled up in extra layers tonight in hopes of not waking up due to the cold.