Rabida and Bartolome

Exhaustion and a sleeping pill as an insurance policy for good rest were a great combination. I slept like a rock last night. It was the first night of deep sleep I’ve had this trip and it was glorious. I woke up early, before dawn, and was actually excited for the opportunity to watch the sunrise. I still had some time so I got back into bed and, well, it would have been nice to see it but I ended up falling back to sleep. I missed seeing the sunrise by about five minutes. Seeing the red sand of Rabida I got over my sunrise disappointment quickly; I was giddy the moment I looked out my window into the light.

Enjoying the quiet stillness of the early morning I sat at the bar in the lounge to write before the day’s activities began. Greg sat on the other side editing through photos he had shot the day before, sharing a few of the extraordinary images he had been able to capture with his oh-so-complicated Canon and telling me how he’ll slowly share them on his Instagram page after the trip. We occasionally shared thoughts and photos while respecting each other’s obvious desire for quiet concentration. I like my morning quiet time. The shining start of breakfast this morning was a sweet yucca bred that was a perfect compliment to my omelette, fruit, and sweet tomato juice.

Wet landing on Rabida was a mini shit show for Kyra; losing her sandal (don’t worry, it floated back) and struggling to get her stuff together. The rich color of the beach was so enchanting. Andreas led us around a wall of vegetation to a large brackish (combined salt and fresh water) wetland area. Normally this is the type of environment in which flamingos would thrive but since baby sea lions are like impudent toddlers the conditions in this particular lagoon don’t remain flamingo-friendly. Mosquitoes buzzed all around as we stood around and listed to Andreas explain the ecosystem on this island and more fun facts; such as that flamingoes are born with straight beaks that curve as they mature. They are also born white so I’m guessing the first one I saw on Isabela was a juvenile. I can’t remember what all of her multiple frustrations had been but the mosquitoes were getting the best of her and Kyra declared, “I am not happy right now.” How could you not be happy right now?! We were in the Galápagos, we were on Rabida Island! This is a once in a lifetime experience; no pettiness should be enough to distract from soaking this in. I had to take a few steps away and remove myself from that energy until she settled (sorry, Kyra!). In contrast, I captured a sweet candid moment of young Camilo and his mother, Andrea, sharing a quiet side hug as they listened.

As we hiked I continued to learn so much. I don’t mind that I’m being repetitive here but I really love how much I am learning on this trip. The Western islands of the Galápagos archipelago, such as Rabida, were much younger than their Eastern counterparts. With Rabida’s youth there is more iron in the mineral content that oxidizes and reddens the sand. Since the cactus on Rabida have no predators, such as tortoises or land iguanas, the giant prickly pear cactus are not as giant, growing low to the ground, and the the spines not as sharp. I dunno though, I gently petted a row of spines and they still seemed pretty unpleasant. I spied more heart shaped cactus leaves; I love you too Galápagos!

Andreas shared more about the palo santo trees. I asked him if they ritualize them in Ecuador as well since I have I used palo santo myself for spiritual cleansing and he confirmed that yes, indeed they refer to it as the holy tree. Not only will it help you come to peace with ghosts that haunt your house (speaking from experience) and make for pleasant incense, they are also a natural insect repellant! Andreas poked a few holes in one trunk with cactus quills (told you they are still sharp though softer!) and invited everyone to experience the sap that slowly dripped through. I dotted the natural repellent on my wrists, enjoying the smell reminiscent of licorice and anise. We posed for a group pictures; saying “Boobies!” as Andreas snapped the camera.

Rounding a corner another ship that had docked on the backside of Rabida came into view. This little cruise ship was a replica of the Beagle, the ship on which Darwin had sailed on his explorations of the island. At first I thought it was a permanent landmark in the bay until he clarified that it’s another functional cruise ship that just happened to be anchored there. Andreas shared some background on Darwin and his observations; I beamed with pride as it was all familiar from my recent readings of his voyage journal. Somehow the group got onto the topic of pirates vs buccaneers and Andreas explained that buccaneers were simply certified pirates; hired to protect treasures and bring them back to Europe. I explored the island with both gratitude for the nature and people around me and for the National Park’s conversation. Every two years the national park service reviews and changes the itineraries of islands available for human visits to ensure the magic and innocence of the island remain.

Back on the beach, most members of the group were eager to get in the water and snorkel but I took my time, wanting to soak in my surroundings. Blue footed boobies and cranes sat on the edge of the islands while marine iguanas sunned themselves on rocks and sea lions came out of the water, barking and stretching. Since I wasn’t going to snorkel right away I asked young Camilo if he wanted to take my underwater 360 camera with him to take pictures while he snorkeled. He beamed at the idea and I showed him how to start and stop recording before he waded into the water.

I asked Andreas if he wouldn’t mind taking a picture of me on the beach. As I smiled for the camera, Billy came over shaking his head. He explained to me that I wasn’t doing it right and showed me how I should pose. At first I thought he was joking with me but no, no he was not. In a previous life he did some type of model directing and demonstrated for me how I need to position my hip straight and forward, my shoulders back, and get shots both looking at the camera and gazing to the side (B loves taking a side gaze picture so I thought of him as soon as Billy said that). And I’ll be damned, the man was right and now I need to remember his tips. I should have asked him for more. I’ve heard someone mention that Billy was also some type of teacher in a previous life. I bet this man has a fascinating backstory.

Camilo’s dad Andreas brought the camera back just as I was getting ready to start my snorkeling. He apologized that the videos are probably all shaky and not of much and I was clear that I did not care one bit what the videos looked like, all that mattered was that he had fun. A bonus to staying back at first was that the majority of the snorkelers were way ahead by this point so I had the water mostly to myself. Without worry of running into anyone or being ran into or trying to jockey for position to see something interesting. It was peaceful floating along by myself, the world quiet around me. I twirled with a mama and baby sea lion and another sea lion friend as they joined me in the water. They came closer and I kept moving away, staying very conscious that I wanted to make sure to give them their space and not make any of them feel trapped between me and the cliff side. I also wasn’t sure if mama would get protective of her sweet little baby, who at times pushed itself against her to nurse underwater. I was glad I had my underwater camera with me though Kyra got way better footage on her GoPro of one sea lion actually biting her camera! I need to figure out the editing of the 360 camera videos before I’ll have my own video footage ready to share.

A blue-footed booby darted into the water and dove down right in front of me; torpedoing to the bottom and catching a snack. What a treat to witness such a feeding! A few star fish dotted the bottom of the sea floor and colorful (and drab) fish of all shapes and sizes kept my company. It was not an easy swim out as I was swimming against the current but I was actually enjoying the work out that my body was getting. Perhaps I need to try to get serious about learning how to swim better again. I was also really enjoying my wet suit situation; with my long sleeve jacket on under the half-sleeve shorty suit provided on the yacht. My biggest complaint at beaches and what holds me back is always cold water. I am learning, however, that the snorkeling world is my oyster with wet suits! Not to mention a good mask and snorkel. I am so glad I invested in good personal equipment before this trip.

Back on land everyone compared notes as to what they saw. Some saw sharks and most others saw turtles. Some folks reported seeing turtles go by at least ten different times. I was so disappointed I didn’t get to see a turtle but my chances aren’t over yet. I did get to see a diving booby and not many others were lucky enough to enjoy that experience! Before leaving the beach, my mama and baby twirling buddies posed for a picture with me.

Warmed and dried back on the yacht I settled into my little corner, which everyone on the boat was now acknowledging as my corner. I watched the frigate birds diving and catching their lunches as I wrote and waited for lunch myself. Excursion shoes are a no-no on the boat, taken off and left in slots on the deck as soon as everyone stepped back on board and I was really loving the barefoot boat life.

Lacking a fish option, today’s lunch wasn’t my favorite but it was still quite good. And I was hungry after the morning on the go! While the boat carried us from Rabida towards Bartolome I enjoyed the early afternoon, tucked into my corner, writing and chatting with my new friends.

Bartolome is another island I have been especially eager to visit given its inconic volcanic lookout point. I hadn’t even realized that it also had penguins!!! As the panga neared the beach for our wet landing, adorable little Galápagos penguins were spotted hopping around a lava rock jutting out of the water. I had been excited to see two penguins on the Tintoreas excursion on Isabela and here I was, seeing a whole flock that I hadn’t even expected! Andreas directed the panga driver to divert from the beach to the outcropping so we could get a closer look. Penguins hopped around, preened their feathers, looked at us curiously, and basked in the sun. I don’t know how I’m going to manage to smuggle both a penguin and a baby sea lion home! I was so rapt by the tuxedoed cuties that it took me a moment to realize the crystal clarity of the deep water against Bartolome.

Eventually the panga made it to the beach for our wet landing. It was time to suit up and get in that water. Not purposefully trying to hang back this time, just taking my time to soak in the experience as I geared up, I was the last one into the water again. The pangas from Coral II arrived before I had gotten off the beach and I was again struck at the difference in clientele between the boats. Coral I and II are “twin” yachts that travel in tandem but the guests don’t actually interact; occasionally staff will panga between the boats but I didn’t even see that often. At the arrival lunch our first day everyone had easily summed up that Coral I seemed like the fun boat and every time any of us caught glimpses of the Coral II folks it was confirmed. Coral II was a MUCH older crowd, like I’m not even sure some of them should be allowed out unsupervised. I wonder if they are a senior tour group of some sort as even from the initial airport meet-up they all seemed very familiar with each other.

But I digress. With my wet suit on I backed my finned feet into the water, careful not to crush a lingering sting ray, and I was off. This time I had decided to take the GoPro instead of my Insta360 camera to get a feel for the different in quality. The water got deep quickly and almost immediately I was in a crevice between two large lava walls. A large school of yellowtail surgeonfish were unphased as I swam overhead. This was by far the clearest water I’ve been in this trip and the most diverse. Stately rainbow colored bluechin parrotfish swam by, star fish rested on the bottom, spiked and yellow aenomes dotted the lava.

As I rounded a corner away from the beach I looked up out of the water to get my bearings and make sure I was headed in the right direction. Adam hollered at me, “Look down!!!” I immediately obliged, simultaneously starting recording as a white tip reef shark swam beneath me. So cool! I swam through schools of silver bait fish, sardines, little black and white striped fish; all unfazed by my passage.

Having rounded the corner from the beach I popped my head up as I was against a lava outcropping and I was with the penguins! Within only two feet between us we studied each other before they quickly went back to paying me no attention and penguining while I floated in awe. Behind the outcropping more hopped around against the cliff side while red crabs crawled; creating a beautiful contrast of their bright red shells against the dark black lava rock.

Something caught my eye making a splash in the water and a penguin had dove in right beside me. It darted past me, popped back up, and darted back down beneath; chasing after little fishes like a little torpedo. Andreas had told us that the penguins were shy but this little lad or lady didn’t seem to take too much notice of my presence; they were focused on their snack. I was snorkeling with penguins!!! Not just on land but IN THE WATER WITH ME!

My penguin swim buddy was out of sight and I popped out of the water again. Adam and Audra were close by and called me over. Right under the penguin rock there was a little cave with another shark! Adam encouraged us to dive down Audra had tried and didn’t see it, and I don’t dive. I handed him the GoPro so he could snap a picture for us. Most of us on the yacht have already discussed that we’ll share pictures and footage with each other; especially those of us with underwater cameras. The picture may be a little fuzzy but you can see the whitetip clear as day!

Huge puffer fish glared at me as I swam back towards the beach; I didn’t know puffer fish could get so big but these guys were monsters! Something brown darted past, startling me. I hadn’t even seen sea lions on Bartolome yet and now here they were spinning and playing beside me. What a great snorkel outing; definitely the best of the trip, and this is the last snorkel of the trip; definitely a grand finale. White tip reef sharks, assorted giant schools of colorful and not-so-colorful fish, puffer fishing, diving penguins, playful sea lions and so many colorful and intriguing random fish. I didn’t get to see any marine iguanas or turtles during my snorkels but the diving booby and penguin pal were quite a bonus to make up for it. I mean, I got to snorkel with a penguin, shark, and sea lions all on the same outing. How cool is that?

The panga escorted us back to the boat for a quick turnaround time to dry off and change before the hike. A neighboring yacht’s panga had been taken over by two sea lions who had declared it their territory; perhaps there was a mutiny! After each island they hosed off our feet and backs before getting back on the boat and I was so covered in sand from Bartolome beach that I got quite a long and intense hosing down. A quick shower warmed me up and within 20 minutes it was go time again. I really appreciated the shower in my suite. I had been worried that it would be pretty crappy but in fact it’s a decent size with good warm water, solid water pressure, and a place to set my body and face wash, loofah, etc.

This time the pangas went left of the beach and dropped us at the base of some steps. A sea lion had claimed the first few so I was grateful my long legs could reach the third step with ease as we disembarked. As a very young island, only about one million years old, Bartolome doesn’t have much life on it yet. Small pioneer plants, that sounded like they were called tequila Galápagos but are actually tiquilia nesiotica dotted the side of the cinder cone. Beyond the pioneer plants lava flow streams clearly ran down the side the cone.

In the water a circle was clearly visible beneath the surface, this was a parasitic/spotter cone that was still submerged, just barely. Parasitic cones were visible all through the surrounding landscape of the tiny island. Andreas gave us a break from the steps and explained how hot spots work; the area between tectonic plates where the earth is the thinnest. The tectonic plates shift but the hot spots don’t; I have to admit I don’t quite understand that part and need to do some follow-up googling. The Galápagos and Hawaiian islands are prime examples of hot spots. If water was drained from the ocean eventually it would get to a point where a platform is reached that connects all the islands to one another. I wonder where are the other hot spots? Definitely more research to be done here.

At another break point Andreas passed around large chunks of lava to demonstrate how light it was as the gases escape. This I already knew but I’d never held such large pieces before. The landscape and views grew more fascinating as we climbed on.

It was hot and the steps were steep in spots. Bruce, from Las Cruces, NM was in my group on this trek. Bruce’s wife Renee has had terrible sea sickness most of the trip and not made it out on many of the excursions. With my asthma and caring not to get my heart rate up too high so I didn’t trigger it today, Bruce and I were fairly well paced. Most of the yacht knew I blog at this point, from seeing me tucked away in my corner. As we reached the steepest set of stairs, Bruce told me that I better include in my blog how this 80 y/o man was leaving me in his dust on this grueling hike. Rightfully so, Bruce was proud of himself for making it to the top and we were all proud of him.

The top of Bartolome lived up to my expectations of the spectacular view. The air was a little hazy so it didn’t come out too clear in pictures but in person it was magnificent. I did take my Insta360 camera with me to experiment more with using that to capture the views so we’ll see how that comes out. Ali, a surgeon (I think), from Montreal and his wife Jouhayna, an ObGyn (I think), were on their honeymoon. Ali had another of the Insta360 cameras and had sat with me for a few minutes after lunch, giving me tips on how to use it. The breathtaking view swept across multiple islands and clearly showed the lava flow on neighboring Santiago Island whose exact age is unknown but they do know it’s less than 100 years old based on the accurate maps that Darwin had scribed. I wish I could remember the number now but earlier Andreas had told us the accuracy rate of Darwin’s mapping and it was incredibly accurate. I forgot to take note or a video but I think it was Santiago, Seymour, Santa Cruz, and Rabida, along with two craters whose names I think are Daphne Major and Daphne Minor, that could be seen from atop Bartolome.

On the way back down, Bruce, Jouhayna, and I hung back; taking our time to soak up our surroundings and chat. We talked about hockey teams, the absurdness of professional sports salaries, and California politics. Turns out, Bruce was a California guy; having grown up in Carmel. Finally getting back to our panga, our sea lion friend was still taking up residence on the steps but this time she had turned around and we could see a circular round wound on her side; poor girl.

Before heading back to the yacht, it was time for a panga cruise along the coast of Bartolome. We stopped by our penguin friends that had joined me on my snorkel expedition and found more further down the island at their nesting area. It is not penguin baby season but this was also where the birds take shelter for the night. The lava flow on this side of the island had left magnificent little lava tube hollows that were perfect shelters and nesting sites for these waddling little cuties. It was a good lesson in how well they camouflage since everyone thought we were seeing two penguins on one little corner until our eyes acclimated and two more, flat against the rocks, started to come into view. The sun on the crystal clear water was as beautiful as the penguins.

Back on board the yacht, I went to check if my new black Merrell sandals, that I bought just before this trip were dry yet. I had worn them for the wet landing on Rabida and then left them in the sun to dry. One sandal sat dry and waiting to be collected. Just one. One of the boat boys (their phrase not mine) saw me searching and came to help. We looked all over the deck, he emptied the towel bin, no right sandal. I have a feeling it’s in the bottom of one of the giant life jacket bags. I really liked those sandals.

This is the last night on the yacht and I went to the bow of the boat for a few minutes of solitude and reflection, looking back on Bartolome and its famed Pinnacle Rock that I swam so humbly around. I hadn’t known exactly what to expect from this little cruise but it has easily exceeded the expectations I did have. Walking back to the stern of the yacht I found a sea lion friend on board who was also relishing in the yacht life.

I enjoyed my usual combo of quiet writing and socializing time before another fabulous dinner. Each seat had been set with a creamy mushroom soup and whole red snapper was being carved fresh. In the dining room Sofia and Camilo asked if they could see the 360 videos from my camera. I promised them that after dinner they certainly could. The star of dinner was the desert: Merengon de Guanabana! Guanabana meringue! Two things I love so much, combined into one! I had to pick nasty little raisins off the top but the rest of it was divine. I was so excited I dug in before I took a picture to remember it by.

After dinner I remembered my promise and brought my phone and the cameras down for Sofia and Camilo to view. I could see them having fun looking through the photos and scanning around the 360 shots; wanting to know where some pictures were taken. Camilo asked if he could get some of the pictures somehow and I promised to email them to him. His family was not disembarking with us tomorrow, they are staying on for another four days so I told him that in return he had to promise to send me pictures of anything exciting that he sees after I’m gone. He eagerly agreed and asked if we could take a selfie. My pleasure, Camilo.

Upon boarding the yacht the crew had been too busy for a welcome cocktail so instead they arranged a welcome/farewell cocktail for tonight. Seven of the ten member crew came to be introduced and toast with us. The other three were too busy working since someone had to keep this boat moving in the right direction! Captain Manuel and the crew were dressed in proper uniform. I was amused as they’d spent the rest of the time in shorts and t-shirts so this was the first time we’d seen them dressed in their best. Billy made opening comments and introduced the crew before turning it over to Captain Manuel to address the room. He then took back the mic to lead us through an animated toast.

After the toast, Billy reviewed the itinerary for tomorrow, departure day for most of us. It will be a tight morning with a visit to Black Turtle Cove before we are deposited back at Baltra Island and our yacht time is over. That means packing up tonight. They also provided us with information on customary tipping for the yachts of the Galápagos. It was exactly aligned with what I had seen in my research and seemed ridiculously low at $10/day/guide and $20/day for the crew to split. The service this first class ship provided deserved much more than that. Most of us hung out in the lounge for a little while chatting and reflecting on the trip but by 9pm everyone disbursed to go pack up. I’ve loved this cruise and would love to do more but I’m ready to start wrapping up the trip and head home soon.