Sulfur Makes Me Smile

Before anything I must start by saying thank you. Of course thank you to anyone who is actually taking their time to read my ramblings but an especially special thank you to my friends and family who reached out to check on me today – either after hearing from me yesterday or reading my blog this morning. Your messages made me smile, made me laugh, made me feel special, and made me feel loved. Even my amazing pet sitter, you have no idea how much it warmed my heart when you FaceTimed me with my precious pups this morning. I almost teared up right there in the Christchurch airport. I loved all the advice to go find myself a New Zealand hottie to distract me for a night but let’s get real, I’ve been wearing pants every day and I thought I had a boyfriend waiting for me at home so I’ve only shaved my legs once in the 11 days I’ve been gone.

I didn’t get a ton of sleep last night. Even heavily dosed up I tossed and turned for a long time replaying my morning’s dreaded conversation. The only other thing we’ll say about that today, is that I still had a pit in my stomach off and on throughout the day. The fact that he felt communicating his message via text while I was on this trip instead of waiting until I got home makes it clear to me that there was already a lack of consideration and respect for me, it helps the anger phase set in more. Oh, and my eye, I can still feel the scratch in my eye a bit too but it’s getting better!

So yeah, I had a hard time falling asleep last night and then morning flight anxiety, I was so afraid of missing my flight out that I woke up an hour before my alarm was set to go off. The bed was also really soft. The little government building apartment was cool but I really needed a firmer mattress. What I did realize I loved about that room was the full length mirror, right at the top of the stairs into the loft bedroom, I swear it was tilted forward or a fun-house mirror or something cause it made me look skinny and decent. And I needed that extra shot of confidence this morning.

Consolidating everything back into my one little suitcase and pack for the flight was like playing Tetris but I succeeded and was out the door exactly on schedule. I read the instructions for the AirBnB closely again, this one had a lot of instructions, and left the key and parking card on the table as directed. It said the garage would open automatically to let me out. Well that’s all well and good and true… but it didn’t take into account that you can’t walk into the parking garage without the damn card key, all the doors in and out are locked! I found a building maintenance guy and plead for help. “Which unit had I been staying in?”, he asked. 36. “Of course. I’ve told them they need to fix their instructions.” He was nice and let me into the garage, I promised him I would harass the hosts about this little, very pertinent, detail.

When I got to the airport I was sad to say goodbye to my little Holden Captiva. In all, she had carried me 1,674 miles over the course of ten days through curving mountain roads, winds, rain, snow, floods… It was a great SUV and she didn’t have a scratch on her. Of course she didn’t, cause I had gotten all the insurance. We’ll just forget about the little accidentally running the car off the road into a ditch situation…

The Christchurch airport was little and similar to the Auckland domestic terminal. Absolutely zero airport security screening and all of a sudden they just call your flight number to come walk across the tarmac. As previously mentioned, while there my pet sitter texted me to see if I had coverage and then FaceTimed me with my pups. It was something special, I was just disappointed I didn’t have better reception, even on WiFi it was spotty. Later this evening she sent me another picture of my Zeus and Gremlin cuddled up together – I can’t wait to get home and see my babies. I ordered a ham and egg bagel from the cafe in the airport. It was soooo disgusting. The egg was like an egg salad, which I normally like, but they warmed it up. And warm egg salad just doesn’t work. I couldn’t do it. I took two bites and threw it away. This is why I travel with all sorts of nuts and protein bars! Though I think I am finally out of my date bars.

Those little regional planes are slow and the flight to Rotorua took almost two hours. There were some cool views from above but mostly lost in the clouds. I listened to podcasts and pondered my knuckles, because they still are trying to heal and hurt like a bitch every time I rub them against anything. I still can’t even make a fist as the pain is so bad and it will tear them open again. I was listening to the Ear Hustle podcast, recorded inside San Quentin Prison with an inmate as a co-host and interviews with other inmates. One of the podcasts was focused on inmates and volunteers ending up in inappropriate relationships. One inmate they interviewed talked about basically breaking up with the volunteer he’d become involved with. At least I wasn’t dumped by a prisoner. When my little plane touched down in Rotorua it was gray and cloudy but it wasn’t raining.

I was anxious and eager to get my day in Rotorua started! The line at the Hertz counter had me really missing my Hertz Gold service that I’m so used to. There were two groups in front of me. And they were taking forever. I’ve never seen people ask so many questions or have such little understanding of rental car categories. It was ridiculous, it took over 20 minutes before it was my turn at the counter. And even then one of the groups ahead of me tried to come back and cause another fuss and I basically looked at them and told them they’d had their time, it was my turn now. I was a little more sympathetic, but just a little, based on what I’d heard as I waited, when I realized the chick at the counter wasn’t the best at her job either as she tried to hand me the keys to a Mazda 6, a compact car, and I’d rented an SUV. Oy. Eventually I had my car and I was off!

As I pulled out of the airport I started to smell it! That “stink.” That familiar sulfur smell. I was back in my geothermal world, the entire town of Rotorua basically smells like sulfur. I smiled as I drove down the familiar roads, I was so happy for a sense of familiarity. And I was taken back to my first trip to New Zealand earlier this year and how in awe I was at the wonders this area had bestowed upon me. Just to try to bring me down a notch, it started raining. But I didn’t care. It wasn’t freezing and it wasn’t windy. Yes, the “Scenic Coast Highway” and the “Glacier Highway” and the “Southern Scenic Highway” were great and all on Highway 6 down in the South Island, but seeing the “Geothermal Explorer Highway” made me giggle with excitement. I should’ve taken a picture of that sign, maybe I can tomorrow. I had been missing, and desperately needed, the sense of peace that was washing over me. Driving down the highway to my first destination I let out a loud scream in the car. I was overdue for a scream and I wanted to finish expelling negativity from my body.

Excited and eager I arrived at the Waimangu Volcanic Valley. I didn’t even care that it was raining, that’s what a hat and rain coat are for. I paid my visitor fee and got my valley map. The lady explained to me that towards the end of the trail a part of it was washed out and inaccessible but there was a bus running every 15 or so minutes that would pick people up at the washed out point and take folks to the end to see the lake and then it would be available to bring people back, so the trek could be done one-way. This was good to know since I had wanted to try to make three stops this afternoon, it was already 1pm, and all the places were closed off after 5 or 6pm. Walking out of the little building I discovered that the rain had pretty much stopped!

I was in heaven walking through this geothermal valley. I had not made it here my last trip so this was all new to me. The little map had information describing all the phenomena and I read every word, soaking in all the information and amazing wondrous scenes before me. This is the world’s youngest volcanic valley, caused by the eruption of Mt. Tarawera. The valley is a series of craters created by this eruption and other geothermal features such as geysers, hot springs, silica terraces, all the good stuff. The land itself is actually warm and, though it was sprinkling off and on, I was getting hot walking through there. I was in my element, I was happy. I saw a trail leading off to the side, the Mt. Haszard Hiking Trail. The lady who checked me in didn’t say anything about this! The sign said it would take an hour. I looked at my map and could see where the trail rejoined the path I was on. I didn’t want to deviate yet and wanted to consider the rest of my day before committing myself to it, but I could pick it up on the other end.

When I got to the bus stop where they were to ferry folks past the washed out trail, a bus was actually there. If I really wanted to walk I could walk down the gravel road the bus was on, above the trail basically. But DON’T veer off! We all know my preference is to hoof it if I can so that sounded perfect, it should only be about another ten minutes to the lake at the end and then I could either hike back or wait for a bus to take me back. As soon as I started down that road the rain came on strong again. It was pouring. And I was not wearing my water resistant pants today. By the time I made it to the lake, I was drenched. My pants were cold and heavy and looked like they’d just come out of the washing machine. I took shelter as best I could under some trees but there was no full shelter to be had. Normally I’d make the hike back but these wet pants were so uncomfortable. So I waited for the bus that was supposed to take me back. And I waited. And I waited. Finally one showed up. I hopped on. And then we waited. And waited. By the time I got back it had been about 40 minutes, I probably could have walked back quicker. So much for the bus running every 15 minutes!

I really didn’t want to bog down my day by dealing with changing clothes but I was soaking wet and the rain wasn’t going away. The afternoon was dragging on so I’d already decided I wouldn’t make it to the Buried Village today. It was mid-afternoon and I was also getting hungry. I knew I wanted to eat at Te Puia where I could get a traditional Maori Hangi meal. My AirBnB is right by Te Puia so it made sense to stop by to get checked in and changed. As I mentioned yesterday, I actually stayed in this exact same AirBnB my last trip to Rotorua. It’s nothing special but a perfectly efficient and comfortable little studio cottage. It felt like I was walking into a home of mine when I walked in. It even smelled as I remembered it. They did change out the bedspread but I suppose I’ll forgive them for that.

It was raining again when I left my AirBnB to go next door to Te Puia, another geothermal park. Te Puia’s cafe did not disappoint as I enjoyed my traditional Maori Hangi meal. Hangi is a method of underground smoking meats and vegetables and it creates the best tasting food ever. The meal included Hangi smoked chicken, pumpkin, kumara, and potato, along with stuffing, corn, braised cabbage, watercress, and fresh rewana bread. Enjoying my meal I decided this was basically my version of Thanksgiving dinner this year! Te Puia has impressive geysers, bubbling mud pits, boiling springs, and all that jazz. But the park was pretty crowded today so that was a bummer. It rained off and on as I meandered through revisiting the wonders I had seen on my last trip. Yup, still there. The geyser plateau looks like the surface of mars or something. With the hot geothermal activity pressing up from underground and the cold air it was often like walking through clouds as masses of steam lifted off the earth. I coudn’t get a single good picture of the geysers this trip as most of the time they went off the steam was so intense it was just giant white clouds. Many of the wonders at Te Puia don’t look impressive in a picture but videos helps you see/hear what the earth is actually accomplishing. Apologies if you followed my blog on my February trip as some of these pictures might look familiar.

Before I wrapped up my time at Te Puia I went back by the Geyser Terrace and realized that there was nobody else around. Only the small side geyser, Kereru, was erupting but that was ok. I enjoyed the quiet as I contemplated all the silica terraces and how amazing the earth is.

I stopped in the little shop on my way out. There was a lovey dovey couple being all kissy face in there. It irritated me to no end and I wanted to just push them apart (bitter, party of 1). There was also a group that had just finished a tour, I realized that it was a group of developmentally challenged adults. In the shop they had a little display that was an outline of a Maori hut with Maori styled mannequins basically. One of these folks asked me if I would take her picture in front of the display. Sure, my pleasure. She was very thorough in showing me how to use her camera (an iPhone) and exactly how she wanted the picture, she kept saying to make sure I “get it all!” I snapped her picture and she loved them. She loved them so much, she asked me to take more pictures. Like more of the exact same picture. Each time she’d look she’d say she loved it so much she wanted another. And then her friend came over and he wanted a picture. And then she wanted another. All by the display in the shop. After a few minutes I realized I would be there till the place closed if I didn’t escape. So I said “so glad you’re happy” and quickly turned on my heels to rush out.

After Te Puia it was too late to make it to any other geothermal parks so I called Hell’s Gate and booked a mud bath and sulfur spa. I had been to Hell’s Gate last February and had an awesome experience. I stopped back by my AirBnB to change into a swimsuit and off I went. The rain had stopped and it was a quick and easy drive. At no point today have I driven more than 25 minutes at a time, that’s been magical. Upon my arrival at Hell’s Gate they let me know that they are only running the private mud baths tonight due to some construction so instead of straight into my mud bath at the booked time and then into the sulfur spa I would be able to wait in the sulfur spa, it should be about 20 minutes, and then get to enjoy one of their private mud baths, and then have my time after back in the sulfur spa. I had actually been looking forward to the atmosphere I had experienced before but oh well. It was 7:15pm when I arrived there. I stripped down, threw all my belongings in the black tub they provided (no locker, just a waterproof tub that they say to keep with you), and retreated into the warm sulfur spa. And waited. And waited. And waited some more. I can’t remember if I shaved my armpits this morning or last night but the sulfur was making them sting! And it started to rain. And then it started to rain heavier. I noticed the pattern of other people coming and getting called to their baths. I had started talking to some folks in the spa, a young couple also from California, and inquired how long they had to wait as they had already had their time in the mud. I checked my phone, it was 8:30pm. I’d been waiting over an hour. I went and found the attendant and learned that they had forgotten about me. It’s always nice to be forgotten about. Right away she led me to my private mud bath, still an outdoor spa but just a tiny one in a small enclosed courtyard that was maybe 5’ wide and 8’ long. It had black walls on all four sides and a private shower to rinse off after. It was also pouring rain. Pouring. I spread the thick mud all over my body and soaked as the rain continued to grow heavier. There was no cover at all over this courtyard. The muddy water was jumping around from the giant raindrops like one of the bubbling boiling mud pits I’d seen earlier in the day. When the rain was so bad that, even with my head down, the mud on my face was starting to run I realized that I really wasn’t enjoy myself at all and got out. I’ve already been dejected enough in the last couple days I didn’t need to sit someplace where they forgot about me, feeling like I was in solitary confinement, in the unsheltered pouring rain.

I left Hell’s Gate at 9pm to drive back to my AirBnB and tuck in for the night. It was pitch dark out. A crazy stark contrast to the southernmost part of the South Island where the sun didn’t set until after 9pm and darkness didn’t set in until about 10pm. I also realized that this was the first time this trip I’ve had to drive more than a couple miles in the dark!

Showering up back in my AirBnB I was reminded of the sulfur content in all the water around here. My eyes still kinda sting from the sulfur spa plus the sulfur water in my shower and were looking super bloodshot.

Tomorrow I was supposed to do my White Island outing! The operators called this evening to let me know that the captain thinks the seas will be too rough tomorrow afternoon but it looks like if we move the tour up to 10am it should work. The captain will confirm at 8am tomorrow and they will call to let me know. Fingers crossed! If the tour isn’t a go I’ll just explore a couple more geothermal areas around here before heading towards Tauranga for the night. Only three more sleeps, two in New Zealand and one in the air, before I’m home!